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Bright ruby. Musky aromas of black raspberry and espresso. Creamy-sweet and rather powerful, with bright acids and inner-mouth floral character giving this densely packed wine a degree of finesse I haven't found in past vintages. Finishes with fat but fine, spreading tannins and terrific persistence. A very strong vintage for this wine; this should turn out to be the best-balanced Mondotte yet by a wide margin.

From a 11.3-acre vineyard cropped at 25 hectoliters per hectare, this blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc is a candidate for perfection. The 2000 La Mondotte has a saturated, inky purple color to the rim and a tight but enormously promising nose of blackberry and cassis liqueur intermixed with cherry, vanilla, espresso, mocha, and a hint of acacia flower. This unfined and unfiltered wine is enormously rich, with great intensity, fabulous purity, a layered texture, and a viscous, full-bodied finish that goes on for nearly one minute. In spite of its size, the wine has remarkable finesse and delineation. This is another tour de force in winemaking from proprietor Stephan von Neipperg and winemaking consultant Stephane Derenoncourt. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2030. P.S.

Complex, subtle aromas of crushed berry, plum and cherry. Full-bodied, with thick and silky tannins and a long, ripe fruit finish. Very serious indeed. Not the 1998 La Mondotte, but close enough. Almost 95-100. Score range: 92-94